Moto Morini, restauration project 350 Sport

The Moto Morini 350 was first registered on the 23rd of August 1975. It is my intention to write about the restauration of this motorbike on this page.

The bike was offered to me through this photo. I had great hesitation buying bike, as it will be a hell of a job to get it back on the road . But, ... I won't do it overnight, but will take my time for it.

At first glance, it's clear the following parts are missing:

front muffler (fender);
headlight;
original side covers;
sidestand;
brake pump and lever.

Non-original:

The 2-into-1 exhaust (but aparantly, it makes a superb sound....),
rear set,
taillight of a Honda :-(
rear muffler (fender) needs a closer view to see if it is original,
rear shocks,
the wheels are Borrani's which came standard on the Sport model, the double discs at the front are also from a Sport,
the rear drumbrake is also from the Sport model, as the diameter is 2cm more than the drumbrake of the Touring.

Broken or in a bad state:

both instruments, the rev. counter was taken apart,
the tacho is of a later type and is missing the chrome ring,
both carburettors came with the bike, loose in a box and are missing both slides and needles. The covers and springs are still fixed to the throttle cables.

incomplete cockpit

Spring dangling on the throttle cable. Dirty engine cover. Side stand is missing (but won't fit either, because of the 2-into-1 exhaust

Side covers of an unknow motorbike

Both calipers, not complete

The Sport rear drum brake

Wrong rear mudguard (?) with Honda taillight

Stickers instead of badges on the fuel tank

Honda taillight, WRONG indeed!

Loose bits, lhs electronic rev counter, but taken apart

Carburettors: slides and needles are missing

First plan to restore the bike is as follows:

Strip the bike completely. I will make note of all missing and broken parts.
The bare frame needs blasting by a specialist. Not sure yet about the finish: either powder coating, or paint.
Next, I'll make a new wiring harness. I have done this several times for this type of bike and I have already bought everything necessary :-))
At the next autojumble 'Vehikel', I will hand in the wheels to get them re-spoked. He has done Borrani's for me previously and had the drums 'pearld'. Awsome result. At Vehikel, I will also get new tyres

28-03-2010

I got an insurance for the bike. Not that I can ride it, but if you don't have an insurance, you have to get the registration suspended. This costs 31 Euro a year and the insurance only a little more at 36 Euro :-)

To take the bike apart is not difficult. All you need are good tools. Keeping all the loose parts together, can be a problem. It's easy to loose bits. That's why I first made a wooden crate of some loose planks, which I kept in my garage. I will put all the parts in this crate, to prevent loosing anything.

After that, I started to take the bike apart. The nice bit is that the list of missing or broken parts only gets longer ;-(

bracket for the licence plate and taillight,
taillight,
cover fusebox,
switch for brake light. I found something on the bike (part of the rearset, but it was broken). I will dig into this later on how to solve this,
the black plastic knobs to keep the side panels in place,
similar, but bigger to keep the seat in position,
rubber band and clasp to fix the battery,
slides and needles of the carbs (perhaps there is more missing, have not looked into it),
airfilter elements. The airbox had these elements, but I would like to replace 'm.

Misschien heb ik sommige onderdelen inmiddels dubbel genoemd. Straks wordt het natuurlijk één lijst.

Positive news:
the engine is not stuck, but 'loose'. I had a fear, the engine was stuck after many years of just standing. Very carefully, I pushed the kickstarter by hand and I could hear compression ;-) Just after that, I had a look at the oil level: still allright!

First view without the seat. In the toolbox, I found a flash light relais and cables. Removed the lot

Taken everything off the bike, like toolbox, rectifier, fusebox. The metal plate which holds the rectifier and fusebox needs galvanising

A lot of dust and dirt, little surface rust. Some bolts simply broke off, but I could remove the lot, without using a drill

The crate is excellent. That way I won't loose anything (as long as I have the discipline to use it)

Cut-off wiring. No problem as I will make a new wiring harness

On this picture, the surface rust on the rear swingarm can be seen

Another view

Battery stand

The crate

Left-to-right: horn, transducer, airfilter with the throttle cable on it, ignition switch

taking the bike apart is a straight forward job

the chain gave some problems, but after I added some WD40, I took my hammer. Then the link came out

the red bike in the background is my normal 350 Touring

I cleaned the rear mudguard with some super cleaner for a perfect result

took the first bolts of the flange

on the rhs it's very thight. I could not yet get the washer out

I am thinking on how to get these downpipes nice and clean

THE WALL

July 2011
After months of doing nothing, I re-started the project! During the Winter I had taken the engine out of the frame and also removed the rear swingarm. Next on the 'to do' list was to take off the front fork. Unfortunately, due to a missing tool, I was unable to this job. Fortunately Ben, the father of friend Tom was able to help me out. Thanks again!

This evening I cleaned the frame of all grease and dirt. 'Dasty' a de-greaser for kitchen use did miracles! Quite a bit of dirt and grease came off the frame While at it, I took of the center stand and a few other bits and pieces. I stored these bits in labled plastic bags in order to find them back when I want to assemble the bike later. Talking of assembling: I first have to think of painting or powder coating the frame. Have not yet taken a decision. Paint is original, powder coating possibly longer lasting. We'll see.

Above, the stripped and 'clean' frame. Fortunately, only some surface rust, nothing serious.

On the photo left, the frame with it's fresh paint. Yes, after good advice, I choose for synthetic paint. It seems grey on the photo (thanks to the flash), but it is really black and beautiful!!

This is one part of the rearset, which I bought in Italy. The nice part is that left and right are nearly identical!
Don't you think it is like a piece of art?!

14 September 2011
An important day! Collected the frame today, the Marzocchi shocks are fantastic, awsome!! Better than new :-))
Below a first impression of what the bike will look like. Next, I'll build a new wiring loom, as all the wires on the bikes were ready to be thrown out.

The frame should be black on the Sport models with spoked wheels. Matching fuel tank, with a brandnew stainless cover, round sidecovers.

Rearset, made in Italy.

Meanwhile, I have found parts, so the 'wanted' list has become much shorter. This is my present list of bits I still need:

cover for the fusebox;
airfilter elements, will soon order new ones;
certain carburettor parts, like slides, jets and needles;
silent blocs for the front end of the fueltank;
brackets for the front mudguard;
small bracket near the transducer to guide the cable for the clutch.

Next: I'll build a new wiring loom.

20 September 2011 Yes, the wiring was to come first. That was the plan. Sometimes things do not go according to plan. First of all, I put the small rubber blocks back under the frame. The center stand folds back to it. Cleaned them with some silicone spray. Used a tiny drop of Loctite on the unsecured nuts to avoid loosing them. ;) Next, the rear swingarm went back in place. Pretty straight forward job. The holes precisely opposite the holes in the engine mounting plates of the frame, shove the axle through and ready.

Below Gianni's beautiful 3½ Sport, a source of inspiration for me:

the rubber blocks under the frame. The centre stand folds back to it

the rear swingarm axle with the three bronze rings

set of keys for the brandnew steering lock. Lhs the previous lock which had to be drilled out, as there were no keys with it

the new steering lock

Unfortunately, it was not that simple. First of all two small plates (62) have to be bolted loosly to the engine mounting plates. They should be loose, to be able to let the axle (53) pass. Soon as the axle is in place, the small plates can be bolted thighly. But before you do so, three bronze rings (52), which fill small gaps between the rear swingarm and the engine mounting plates, have to be in place. One ring fitted perfectly, but for some strange reason, the axle could not pass the two other rings. I looked at the rings before I started and they looked identical, apart from different thickness. Just as I wanted to call it a day (at about 23h), I took the lot apart again. Two rings would not fit around the axle. I made the holes tenths of mm's wider and then they fitted the axle perfectly. After that I put the lot back in place. Finally, everything was done at midnight, including clearing up tools ;). I have to buy different grease nippels (50 + 74). The rear set is not original factory made and one of the two bolts is fixed into the swingarm axle. Normally there is a mini grease nippel on that spot. Later with the rear set fixed on the bike, both sides have to come off during maitenance. Then with the new nippel the axle can be greased.

the bronze rings indicated by the red arrows

On the left, a picture of the frame.
Click on picture for original size.

The parts:

52: one of the three bronze rings
53: rear swingarm axle
59: rubber blocs
62: metal plates on the rear engine mount plates
70: rear swingarm
74 & 50: grease nippels

1 oktober
The first re-chromed parts are back!! Awsome!! Also made the first new wires for a complete new wiring harness. A nice detail: apart from the brandnew steering lock (see above), I also found a n.o.s. ignition switch!! The correct one for this bike: 5-pole, complete with 2 brandnew keys!!

The first re-chromed parts. The cockpit (top) I bought in Italy from the same person as the rear set. On the picture also the heatshield and the front and rear axles

The very first wiring connected

Transducer and airbox back in place

Garage, working spot. On the white seat, the electric diagram

The wiring harness
Making a new wiring harness for this bike is not that difficult.

Shopping list:

an electric diagram
cable in the correct colours
pvc sleeving in different widths
(for 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6 cables)
non insulated female blades
black, hardplastic insulating sleeves for the female blades
cable ties, various lenghts
cable stripper tool
crimping tool
silicon spray, like WD40

By experience, I learnt to not use the pre-insulated female blades with the blue or red cover! Too often, after connecting the cable, the wire can just be pulled out! That's why they are no option for me. I do not solder the wiring. The copper gets hard by soldering. This increases the chance that the wire breaks at the spot where the soldering tin stops. My intention is the copy the original wiring harness on the Morini. The reason is simple. Despite some stories about 'spagetti wiring', the electrics on the bike are very reliable. On my 3½ from 1973 nearly all the wiring is still original. Another plus of the wiring is that it consists of about 15 different cable sets, which can be made one-by-one. Or, each set can be replaced individually in an existing wiring harness.

The method is simple:
look into the electric diagram, the thick cableset N1. It consists of 6 cables in 5 colours: 2x green, 1x purple, 1x orange, 1x brown, 1x yellow/black. N1 connects the fusebox and terminal just above the bottom yoke. Both green wires are connected to the transducers. Take a piece of thin rope to determine the lenght of the cableset. Avoid tight bends and - if necessary - take into account that the handlebars should move freely from left to right. Also take into account the width of the fusebox, about 12cm. A cable connected to the lhs bottom of the fusebox should have a slightly different length than a wire connected to the rhs top. After the lenghts of cables are determined, cut them and push them through the pvc sleeving. When you use longer lenghts, it sometimes is very difficult to push the wiring through the sleeving. In those cases, some WD40 into the sleeving does help! Next, srtip-off the cable ends, don't forget the put the black covers in place and finally shrink a blade terminal on the cable. Finally put the cableset on the bike using the cable ties. On the early 350s, there are three spots on the frame for earth connections. The earth wires should be blue, see the electric diagram. Use round terminals on the cables for the earth connections.

Some tips:

use some extra pvc sleeving on necessary spots.
after the frame has had a re-spray or has been powdercoated, make sure the spots on the frame for the earth connections are blanc metal! If they are not blanc, it is very well possible that the electrics don't work, or worse, the engine will not start. On the early 350s, the earth connections on the frame can be found below the fueltank, left and right near the steering stock. Also below the rectifier. Use an Ohm meter to check the earth connections.

14 October, taking it easy, half the electrics are done.

electric diagram (click on
picture for larger size)

electric cable in 6 of the 11 used colours. On later models you will find more colours

pvc sleeving

non insulated female blades

hardplastic insulations sleeves for the female blades

shrink tool: not cheap, but just excellent, worth every penny

shrunck

result

Photo to follow

Necessary...

... and don't forget the different sizes pvc sleeving

it should look something like this, the cableset in the PVC sleeving

Chrome strip
Years ago I wrote down a tip on a supplier for the chrome strip which goes under (the side of) the fueltank. Fortunately, I made a note. Of course, I needed this chrome strip for the project. It arrived today and I could not wait to put it in place. You need 2 pieces of app. 60cm's. Piece of cake, ... or rather strip :-))
(The remaining strip I sold on).

chrome strip in 3m lenght

difficult to see, because of the flash, but just perfect! You need 60cm on each side

Cockpit and seat
When you do a restauration you definitely need the help of your friends! Fortunately 2 friends helped me out:
- Fer had a go with the cockpit and made it red! Awesome!!
- Anton brought me a brandnew Sport seat from Italy (also many thanks to Fabio!!).
The stainless rings I brought from Italy myself, specially made by Gini Mauro, (magician with the lathe) who also made the rear set (footrests).

Many thanks guys!!!

cockpit

seat and centre stand springs for this and another bike

The wheels
Next step is the restauration of the wheels. Nice aluminium
18 inch Borrani rims. The Germans call these 'Hochschulter Felgen', (high shoulder rims), because of the high side. You find them on Italian classic sportbikes.

The following needs doing on the whees:

New tyres;
The rear drum and front hub need professional cleaning;
New bearings in both hubs;
New brakeshoes;
Stainless spokes and re-spoking both wheels;
Polishing the rims;
Get rid of rust on both brake discs.

1. On a jumble I found a set of new rubber, Metzeler ME77 in the original sizes 3.50x18 en 3.25x18. Complete with new tubes.

2. - 4. The rear drum and front hub were done on no-time. I gave them in on Wednesday. On Friday I received a call that they were done. Perfect job, see photo's.

5. I will have to order the spokes. They are 3,6mm thick. Or in imperial sizes: 9 gauge. Aparantly there are inside and outside spokes. From the 'inside' of the hub through the spoke hole and from the 'outside' of the hub through the spoke hole. The outside spokes have an angle of 85 degrees, the inside spokes have an angle of 90 degrees.

6. I have already polished the worst part of the rims, but that was only the start. I need Belgom for the finishing touch.

7. The discbrakes are of cast iron. They rust like @#&%$#@!. Specially as the bike must have been standing for at least 10 years. I took off the worst rust with very fine sandpaper.

Corroded parts of rear-wheel. Look at the white 'cauliflower' on the rear drum. That needs a professional clean-up!

The spoke pattern of the front wheel is different to the pattern of the rear wheel. Aparantly this is normal and has to do with the fact that no longer a huge drumbrake was mounted in the front wheel, but (in diameter) much smaller hub.

Restauration of a Moto Morini Sport (1975)