sbarrazino

Technical questions about Moto Morini motorbikes/mopeds
Technische vragen over Moto Morini motoren/bromfietsen
colinwildon
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Joined: 28 Feb 2017, 20:36

sbarrazino

Post by colinwildon » 28 Feb 2017, 20:56

Hi i am trying to get some life out of a sbarrazino.i replased the piston 10 ten years ago and got the bike running. now it will not run. the spark at the plug is intermitent new battery can anyone please help :cry:

350-v-twin
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Re: sbarrazino

Post by 350-v-twin » 01 Mar 2017, 11:01

Hi Colin,

welcome to the Forum!
Well, I'll try to get you going. To get the bike running, both ignition and carburation should be spot-on. There are checklists available on the internet, below my own checklist:

Part I: Ignition

1) Spark?
Yes, sparkplug shows a spark, but engine won't start.

Possible solutions:

- Check ignition timing;
- Check, or replace the condensator;
(Indication: if you have sparks between the contact breaker and not much spark on the sparkplug: replace the condesator);
- Check the distance of the electrodes of the sparkplug(s). Set it at 0.5mm;
- Battery should be charged.

In case the engine still won't start, check the flow of petrol (see part II).

2) No spark!

Possible solutions:

- Broken ignition coil;
- Connectors corroded;
- Condensator broken;
- Set of contact breaker worn: lift of the moving part is insuffiecent, should be max. 0.4mm;
- Burnt-in contact breakers;
- Magnets of the flywheel have lost magnetic power;
- HT-lead between coil corroded on the side of the coil, or on the side of the sparkplug, or both sides;
- Sparkplug cap broken;
- Sparkplug broken;
- HT-lead to sparkplug is worn and 'leaks' electric power. Simply replace the HT-lead.
- Distance between the electrodes of the sparkplug too much, set at max. 0.5mm;
- Check electric connections, perhaps there is a malfunctioning connection in the wiring harness or a corroded connection;
- Ignition switch broken;
- Check all connections to the frame to "earth" or mass;
- Battery broken, connectors corroded.

Part II: Flow of petrol

3) Engine does not start
Sparkplug shows a spark, all possible solutions on the ignition have been checked.

Possible solutions:

Petrol

- Old petrol in the fueltank. Modern petrol ages rather quickly. Drain the fueltank and fill up with fresh petrol.

Fuel tank

- At the bottom of the fueltank there is a mixture of rust/dirt blocking the flow of petrol to the carburettor. Clean out;
- Small hole in the cap of the fueltank is blocked. This hole allows air-in, while petrol out. Clean out;
- Filter of the fueltap is blocked. Clean out.

Carburettor

- Water entered the carburettor/float bowl. Empty the floatbowl;
- Old petrol in the carburettor started to 'dry out' and has blocked the jets. First indication: thick green residue in the float bowl;
- Jets/atomisers blocked inside.
clean:
a) with compressed air (never use sharp tools),
b) or clean with ultrasonic device,
c) or let soak in dieselfuel or breakcleaner.
- Petrol level too high/too low caused by leaking float.
- Float does not cut-off the flow of petrol caused by mal-functioning float needle. This way, the engine gets too much petrol.
- Engine sucks-in 'false' air, caused by a leak between cilinderhead-carburettor connection. Check for cracks or replace gasket and/or rubber.

Hope this helps, keep us posted of your progression.

colinwildon
Posts: 7
Joined: 28 Feb 2017, 20:36

Re: sbarrazino

Post by colinwildon » 01 Mar 2017, 14:02

Hi thanks i havetried al these points but the spark is still intermitant i can not find a condenser on the bike and i can not find a set of points. as i would no them in a distributer there looks like a set of points in the head light but these a alien to me the original rectifier has been replased by one from a fizzy .i think the main pronlem is the ignition switch but i have no diagram of it
thanks for the post

350-v-twin
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Re: sbarrazino

Post by 350-v-twin » 01 Mar 2017, 19:48

Normally the set of breaker points of the ignition is 'hidden' under the flywheel. Also the condensor should be found there. You can remove the flywheel with a correct flywheel puller. Be careful not to damage anything (specially the coil), as it is not so easy to find replacement parts outside Italy. You can always try NLM for Moto Morini parts, but they mainly focus on the later v-twin models 350/500/250 and 125/250 singles. See NLM website: http://www.northleicestermotorcycles.com/

It should look something like this (example from a Puch Maxi): http://www.puchmaxi.nl/inbus_ontsteking.php
On the 5th photo from top you see the contact breaker points, the next photo shows the contact breaker points on the lhs, rhs the condensor. It is very well possible that on the Sbarazzino, these parts are on a different location on such a 'base plate' of the ignition. Hope this is clear.

Perhaps you can make a few pictures and publish them here. Make the max. 800 x 600 pixel.

colinwildon
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Re: sbarrazino

Post by colinwildon » 01 Mar 2017, 22:35

hi thanks again will check this when i come back from holiday. i have had side cover of and can see were to go thanks
colin

colinwildon
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Re: sbarrazino

Post by colinwildon » 27 Mar 2017, 19:27

Hi Sbarrazino poorspark at points is the fly wheel connected with a right hand thread or left hand thread
thanks

350-v-twin
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Re: sbarrazino

Post by 350-v-twin » 27 Mar 2017, 21:42

No idea, can you screw a flywheel puller into the flywheel?

It looks like this https://www.jmpbonderdelen.nl/vliegwiel ... bosch.html

Then you screw it into the flywheel, like this http://wiki.tomosforum.nl/images/e/e4/E ... llen_2.jpg

When you use a spanner on the bolt which "sticks out" the flywheel should "plop off".

Few things to consider:
1) be careful not to damage the windings of one or more coils of the alternator (inside the flywheel).
2) the pitch of the thread is important, otherwise it won't screw into the flywheel. Use a pitch measure to find out.
Looks like this https://www.tools2go.nl/files/15684/pro ... 3/3067.jpg
Each of these "combs" are different. Not shown on the picture, but you have sizes like 0.75, 1, 1.25 etc etc
There should be one which fits the thread of the flywheel. Make sure you get a pitch measure for metric. A better toolshop sells them.

colinwildon
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Re: sbarrazino

Post by colinwildon » 28 Mar 2017, 11:56

Hi the pictureof the puch maxi is the same as my flywheel i think the nut in the centre holds the fly wheel on i have the correct puller but i do not want to tryit if this nut should be removed first. i have tried with not a lot of force both left and right thread but it will not move
thanks

colinwildon
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Re: sbarrazino

Post by colinwildon » 28 Mar 2017, 20:47

Hi i have tried to upload a photo of the sbarrazino fly wheel
colin
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.

colinwildon
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Re: sbarrazino

Post by colinwildon » 28 Mar 2017, 20:49

It is the nut in the centre of the fly wheel what i need to remove it is very tight is it left ot right thread could have built a car in the time this bike has taken
colin

350-v-twin
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Re: sbarrazino

Post by 350-v-twin » 28 Mar 2017, 22:56

Difficult to see with that size photo (too small).
You could take it to a garage where they have an air tool. It gives such an impulse/torque that the nut will jump off.
Only thing is to keep the flywheel steady in place instead of it rotating along with the force of the airtool

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Riceman
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Re: sbarrazino

Post by Riceman » 04 Mar 2019, 20:58

Hi,
I am interested to know how you got on with this as I have the same situation with my Sbarazzino :)

Tom
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Re: sbarrazino

Post by Tom » 17 Mar 2019, 19:10

colinwildon wrote:
27 Mar 2017, 19:27
Hi Sbarrazino poorspark at points is the fly wheel connected with a right hand thread or left hand thread
thanks

It's left hand tread. I think a puller for a Vespa/ Lambretta, will also work, but check what thread it is first before you buy one of those.

Good luck!

These Dansi ignitions are very simple, if you don't get a spark from the parts you have, i have some spare Dansi parts for the Sbarazzino/ Corsaro on the shelf.

Also consider buying the Vape (formerly Power Dynamo) 12 Volts system from the Czech Republic, specially adapted to/ made for the early Morini's (be aware, there are two types of crank shafts where they go onto); Really briljant stuff, but with 400 plus Euro's, not to be called cheap though.

Tom
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Re: sbarrazino

Post by Tom » 18 Mar 2019, 11:15

colinwildon wrote:
01 Mar 2017, 14:02
i think the main pronlem is the ignition switch but i have no diagram of it

Voila: http://www.rpw.it/Files/Morini_Sbarazzino_UEM.pdf

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Riceman
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Re: sbarrazino

Post by Riceman » 19 Mar 2019, 15:40

Thanks for the instruction manual Tom, that will be very handy I am sure. I managed to get the bike going without messing with the points, it just needed a new plug and HT lead and away it went. Sounds sweet as a nut :)

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